Raymond Smith The Gentlemen Costume Guide

What You’ll Need

Raymond Smith dresses like a meticulous British country gentleman who also happens to run street-level logistics for an organized crime syndicate. Instead of a standard gangster suit, his wardrobe leans heavily into structured heritage layers—thick wools, corduroy, heavy knits, and tailored outerwear—grounded by unexpectedly casual denim and amber-tinted frames.

Putting this outfit together is largely an exercise in building the right layers. The pieces themselves resemble high-end everyday menswear, so proportion and color coordination carry most of the weight. Getting the balance right between the rugged textures on top and clean dark denim on the bottom keeps the outfit grounded in the film’s specific aesthetic.

The Trench Coat Silhouette

Raymond’s outer layer sets the tone for his public appearances throughout the film. A long double-breasted trench coat in deep navy or charcoal provides the tailored, commanding lines he carries through damp London streets. Length matters here; aim for a coat hem that falls near or below the knee rather than a modern mid-thigh crop. The double-breasted cut should fit comfortably over thick base layers without pulling across the chest when buttoned.

Mid-Layers: Waistcoat or Shawl Cardigan

Underneath the trench coat, Raymond alternates between two distinct mid-layer configurations depending on the setting. For formal business meetings, he relies on a tailored navy blue corduroy waistcoat. The ribbed texture of the corduroy adds depth against smooth shirting, which prevents the all-blue palette from feeling flat. Keep the vest snug against the ribs, leaving the bottom button undone in classic British tailoring tradition.

For scenes set at his home, around the barbecue, or in more relaxed meetings, he trades the waistcoat for a heavy camel tan shawl cardigan. A ribbed knit with a substantial folded shawl collar and front button closure gives that calm, domestic authority Charlie Hunnam brings to the role. Because this knitwear has noticeable bulk, ensure your outerwear has enough room in the shoulders and armholes to accommodate it if you plan to wear both together.

Shirting and Neckwear

A crisp button-down shirt forms the foundation for both mid-layer styles. A light blue and white striped pattern is his most frequent choice, offering subtle contrast against both navy corduroy and camel knitwear. Keep the collar stiff enough to hold its shape beneath the vest or cardigan neckline.

Neckwear stays narrow and understated. A navy blue slim tie pairs naturally with the matching corduroy waistcoat for a disciplined, monochromatic chest profile. Alternatively, a skinny burgundy tie introduces a muted pop of classic British heritage color that works well against the striped shirt. Tie a tidy four-in-hand knot; oversized Windsor knots will fight with the high button stance of the waistcoat.

Trousers and Belt

Rather than wearing matching wool suit trousers, Raymond deliberately wears clean, dark wash slim fit jeans. This deliberate mix of country tailoring and street practicality is central to the character design. The denim should be a deep indigo with minimal fading, no distressing, and a tidy hem that stacks neatly above leather dress boots or brogues.

Thread a distressed brown leather belt through the loops to secure the trousers. A simple brass or silver buckle keeps the waistline clean without pulling focus from the layered torso.

Eyewear and Grooming

The single most recognizable personal accessory in the entire outfit is Raymond’s spectacles. He wears amber or orange-rimmed acetate frames with clear lenses. The warm orange tones break up the cool blues and greys of his clothing, immediately drawing attention to his face. Finding frames with rounded rectangular rims and distinct translucent tortoiseshell or honey-amber coloring is essential for instant recognition.

Grooming completes the presentation. Charlie Hunnam wears a neat, medium-density beard trimmed closely along the jawline with a clean neckline. The hair is cut with faded sides and kept longer on top, brushed back with a matte pomade or clay rather than a high-shine gel.